Sheba

Sheba is a nondescript restaurant located at the top of Brick Lane’s parade of curry houses. Its name is scrawled in gold on a maroon background, and its interior reflects this, with scarlet tablecloths, sofas and wall decorations. Red is the overriding theme, and fittingly so: Sheba serves up a fiery range of dishes that will set your senses alight and leave your heart racing.

The family-run restaurant opened in 1972, and Sultan Miah took over management from his father four years ago. He believes Sheba remains competitive because of its quality ingredients from premium sources, but points to its extensive menu as it unique advantage. He said: “Our selection of dishes has grown for 30 years, and numbers more than 170 choices today.”

Visitors are welcomed by the pungent smell of curry, common to many of the “Banglatown” eateries. The restaurant is cosy but welcoming; reclining on the plush leather seats, you feel instantly at ease. The lighting is soft and intimate, and candles flicker on every table. Vases of flowers add a touch of romance to the venue. The rhythmic beats of Bollywood emanate from wall speakers, and music videos on a flatscreen tv entertain the eye during any lulls in conversation.

The friendly atmosphere is reflected in the menu introduction: Sheba promises ‘to tickle your taste buds’. The menu offers the standard masalas, kormas and vindaloos, grilled meats, tandooris, and typical vegetable dishes of spinach, potato and cheese. It also extends to shashlick, grilled cubes of lamb or beef served with eggplant, onion and tomato, and shalkora, meat or fish flavoured with a bitter Bangladeshi vegetable. Chef and Sheba specials, such as curried lobster, are also featured.

The choice of dishes could be overwhelming, but the descriptions are concise and informative. The staff are attentive without being overbearing, and are happy to recommend their favourites. My indecisive companion changed her order several times, and our waiter was happy to alter his scribbles.

Our meal began with mango lassis that were rich, creamy, and refreshing: an ideal palette-cleanser. Next, we tucked into our starters: crunchy poppadoms served with mango chutney and sweet yoghurt raita. Succulent lamb shish kebab and crisp vegetable samosas followed, a tasty preview of the food to come.

Sheba is a stickler for tradition, and this is reflected in its authentic presentation: food is served in simple stainless steel bowls and ceramic dishes. The meals are laid out with care, and the vibrant hues of red, yellow and green make each one a treat for the eye as well as the mouth. The powerful smells of the food entwine in the air, and soon you find yourself dining in a warm, aromatic cloud - an unusual but pleasurable experience.

For our main courses, we chose the lobster Bengal special, lamb Malayan, and sag paneer, with sides of samba dall, pilau rice and peshwari and keema naans. The lamb Malayan was particularly excellent – the sweet, juicy pineapple provided a delightful contrast to the well-seasoned, wholesome lamb chunks. Although I didn’t try the lobster, the confused look of pain and pleasure on my companion’s face told a story of spicy, well-cooked and delicious seafood.

The soft, chewy cheese and potato, served with spinach, carrot and onion, meant the thick, gooey sag paneer was a wise choice. Samba dall, made with peas, carrot and potato, was lighter but equally flavourful. The rice and keema naan were fine, successfully soaking up the stronger flavours of the meats and vegetables. The peshwari naan, however, was an absolute treat: light and fluffy naan filled with a mouthwatering mix of warm almond and coconut.

My only niggle from an exceptional meal was the absence of a dessert menu – we were told the delivery hadn’t arrived that night.

Brick Lane is a scalding-hot tandoor of competition, so it’s truly a challenge for any restaurant to stand out. However, Sheba succeeds in doing just that: it impresses with an extensive array of dishes and a keen eye for detail. The food isn’t cheap, but the quality justifies the price, and the welcoming environment and helpful staff are an added bonus.

Sheba has achieved mastery of both the classic and more obscure dishes from the Indian sub-continent. This key factor makes it both a genuine, yet markedly different, Brick Lane experience.


Restaurant Details:

Sheba Indian Restaurant
136 Brick Lane
E1 6RU
02031577027

More Reviews

Back to Home