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Review

The Prince Arthur

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The Martin Bros, owners of such illustrious London gastropubs as The Gun, The Well and The Empress of India, amongst others, have opened yet another outpost. Only this time, rather than going for another high profile restaurant-style establishment, they’ve opted for something far more intimate and accessible, and very much what one would define as a “local”. True to form though, the Martins haven’t veered from their favourite British cooking and there is plenty of it on the menu here. Start with a simple yet superbly thick and creamy carrot and swede soup or a more adventurous wood pigeon breast with roast beetroot and chicory salad. Mains are of the wholesome variety and very reasonably priced. An unpretentious braised lamb shank comes with buttered mash and red wine jus, while the grilled Pollock is partnered with sautéed potato, Savoy cabbage and lemon veloute. This isn’t cooking that will blow anyone away – well, make an exception for the yummy deep fried jam sandwich with carnation ice cream and plum chutney – but it’s hearty, well-executed and for a local pub, more than just good.