Almeida


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Islington, according to my companion – a resident who, in AA Gill fashion, has gamely offered to be known as The Blonde – has been lacking a good restaurant. Courtesy of Almeida, Sir Terence Conran’s amalgam of French cuisine and North London cool, it’s now got one.

The Blonde dived in to one of the Almeida’s most welcome innovations, the Trolley of Charcuterie, and a superb Duck with Pistachio terrine. My Soupe a l’oignon – with its marrow-topped croutons - was a meaty rival to the best of Paris.

The Blonde followed with Lemon Sole Meuniere, an inevitably bony but beautifully cooked piece of fish. I went for Coq au vin, a dish long overdue a revival. Almeida’s interpretation is good but a little light on the “vin” aspect. That had to be provided by the Borgueil Cuvee des Galichets.

Desserts were of the similar quality. The Blonde’s Marquise au chocolat elicited murmurs of delight as did the Trolley of tarts, a wonderful idea where you either choose from a selection of freshly made tarts – aux pommes, citron, chocolat, etc - or do as I do and tuck into a smackerel of every one - purely in the name of research, of course – in order to name the prune d’Agen the pick of the bunch.

All in all a highly satisfying experience and a welcomed addition to London.

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