Bankside

When the bar is doing brisk business but the large dining room is virtually empty, alarm bells start ringing. Could this be the fabled Bankside that several people had recommended? Yes it could for the bells came to an abrupt stop with the realisation that, some 40 minutes later, every single table was taken.

The secret? Good value for money and good food. The menu is short but varied, with starters and desserts around the £6 mark, mains averaging £12-13 and litres of (decent) wine being available for £13.

Cuisine-wise, it’s a granny-pleaser: sort of a best of British with a bit of Europe for good measure, such as the hearty starter of pig trotter croquette and red onion marmalade, or the County Kerry oak smoked sea trout, pickled cucumber and dill salad. There is a nod towards vegetarianism but generally it’s big on the meat in solid traditional manner, such as a fine braised belly of blackspot, served with bubble and squeak and apple compote. Confit of lamb shoulder and its accompanying creamed turnip was also a welcoming, comforting sight.

With a good sticky toffee pudding and some excellent cheese to finish – Neal’s Yard Dairy supply it, so that’s always a safe bet – and a final bill south of £70, it’s easy to see why Bankside has such a reputation.

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