Bangalore Express


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As one of the finest chefs working with an Indian repertoire in the UK, Yogesh Datta has made quite a name for his upmarket restaurant Painted Heron. But with his new venture he take a sidestep into terrain which is all about casual and affordable dining, and on the whole he seems to have pulled it off. Think Wagamama and you’ll be on the right track. So what we get is a large one-sheet menu that offers dosas, tapas-style items, low fat plates, build your own rice and curry plates and even Indian-style calzone. Recommended amongst the starters are a subtly flavoured duck, cashew nut and raisin roll, as well as some very tender chicken drumsticks marinated in fenugreek. For more substantial fare, there is a gargantuan plate of chicken breast in a medium masala, served with roasted aubergines and spinach rice. If there is a criticism or two then it’s to do with the haphazard service and the fact that dishes veer towards being overly spiced – a little more restraint would help. Eye-catching décor of bunk bed-style seating with customers having to climb a small ladder for the top tier tables has a certain novelty factor.

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