Bonds

Tucked away behind Bank station is the stylish Threadneedles Hotel. Unsurprisingly, City types have already set up home in the bar but at the time of our visit, few had moved on to the elegant restaurant. If they had, they’d have found sophisticated food – small portions at high prices as cynics call it - presented by attentive staff. And a bill to make you gasp!

Crab and caviar remoulade (£11.75) was a small portion at a high price, but delicious, ditto butter poached lobster tortelloni (£14.75). Good wines by the glass - St Clair Riesling 2001 (£8.50) to show off the crab, a Chablis Domaine Billaud 2001 (£7.50) for the lobster – eased the pain a little.

Mains continued the quality theme and improved the cost:size ratio. Baked fillets of Dover Sole, lemongrass and ginger broth (£21.75), was okay fish given a considerable boost by the broth. Maybe better fish would save the chef some effort? No gripes re Assiette of Pork, pickled white cabbage, apple and rosemary (£17.75) though; good pork in assorted forms – crispy, a loosely-packed meatball, a roast slice – that pleased solo and with the listed trimmings.

Puddings, as befits the City, were artery threatening, such as poached rhubarb, white chocolate cheesecake (£7.50). The cheesecake was spot on – and not cloyingly sweet as white chocolate can often be – but the rhubarb was undercooked.

A meal of great peaks and disappointing troughs then, File under “expense account only”.

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