Cafe Lazeez

The Café Lazeez “chain” (Soho, this South Kensington branch and, surprisingly, Birmingham) offers a breezy twist on Indian dining.

The menu, despite the odd Jalfrezi, is surprisingly light on the traditional Indian fare featuring instead more innovative dishes such as Paneer Mint Tikka (£4.90). A tandoor dish of cottage cheese filled with a mint coriander mix, marinated with turmeric and yoghurt, it burst with flavour and colour and impressed the vegetarian companion. Char Grilled Salmon (£5.95), was a moist and tasty affair, the yoghurt, red chilli, carom and dill giving the good quality fish a delicious hit of spice.

Main courses – Spinach and Fennel Dumplings (£10.75) and Nalli Gosht (£8.95) – were slightly heavier going. The dumplings, filled with sweet and sour mushrooms, packed no little taste but were hugely filling. The Gosht – billed as a lamb shank delicacy cooked with an exotic melange of spices – was flavoursome but slightly chewier than anticipated. Good sauce though and the extras – saffron rice (£2.75), Peshwari Naan (£2), plus Aubergines (£4.60) and Spinach and Mushrooms (£4.25) – were nigh on immaculate. The Naan was exceptional and highly flavoured with mango, while the Aubergines were rich and provided a strong peppery kick.

It’s no Mela – six, seven years on and STILL the pick of London’s mid-range Indian restaurants – but for a bottle of something drinkable, a couple of starters and change from around £30, Lazeez is a decent alternative.

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