L’Escargot
48 Greek Street, W1
(020 7437 6828)
L’Escargot is a Soho legend. Princess Diana was a regular. Friends who’d eaten there used to discuss the place in hushed, reverent tones. It now falls under the Marco Pierre White banner. Accordingly, when the chance to dine there came along I was expecting something fusty and expensive. Appearance wise, that’s what I got. White linen, grimly efficient staff, works of art on the walls: it’s exactly what you’d imagine. The prices, however, are not. L’Escargot is not cheap exactly but there’s no compromising on ingredients and a three-course meal here will only set you back £27.
The menu is a list of old favourites and traditional dishes with a slight twist. As menus go, it’s a good one though – and anywhere offering Omelette Arnold Bennett immediately goes up in my estimation. Smoked haddock, cheese and eggs are fine bedmates and L’Escargot’s interpretation, while a trifle solid, pretty much hit the spot. My partner also went the breakfast route with a fine Oeuf Poche Florentine, Sauce Mornay. All starters, incidentally, are £7.50. The bread, by the way, was nothing to write home about.
Maintaining that classic frame of mind, we both went the predictable route with the main courses (all £12.95). My companion plumped for Pave of Angus Beef, Vert-Pre Garnish, Jus de Viande (tender, tasty) and I went for Venison au Poivre, Creamed Cabbage, Sauce Grand Veneur (£3 supplement). I’d had the same dish previously at MPW’s Belvedere. This was better – I’d go back every day for that cabbage alone.
Desserts (all £6.50) were a slightly tougher choice. The richness of the previous courses sent me towards the lighter end of the menu and Pannacotta with marinated Prunes was pleasant enough. Predictably though it wasn’t a patch on my partner’s Tarte Fine of Apples, Vanilla Ice Cream: if I could make pastry that good just once, I’d be happy.
|
