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Review

Dine

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When you call a restaurant Dine you’re pretty much establishing a no-nonsense approach from the get go.

That’s not to say Dine is cold or unwelcoming. It’s just a simple, efficient set-up delivering simple but excellent food. Chef/patron Thomas Han is obsessed with seasonality, and is determined to source ingredients from lesser known independent farmers and producers. It’s a twin-pronged philosophy that pays great dividends and keeps costs low; an a la carte meal is two courses for £25 or three for £30. You can’t even “give it large” on the wine list; the house is £13, the most expensive is £60, and 60% of the bottles cost less than £20.

All of which is a long way of saying that Dine is a gem. It’s nicely turned out, it’s ludicrously priced – in a good way, for a change – and the food shows exactly what can happen when good ingredients go into a good kitchen. An Autumn Leaf Salad was interesting, flavoursome and rather pretty to look at. Smoked Salmon “Classical Garnish” brought a pile of very good smoked salmon surrounded by teaspoon-sized piles of capers, finely chopped egg, etc. Lovely.

Pumpkin Risotto with Trompette Mushrooms provided a sumptuous mouthful, with the requisite creaminess / hint of bite that eludes rather too many places. Highland Venison, Cream of Celeriac was exactly that, a straight no chaser course of the best piece of venison I’ve eaten on a heap of rich, earthy mash.

Highly recommended.