Enigma

There’s something shabbily charming about Warwick Avenue. That bohemian air, all those massive houses with peeling paintwork… If they found themselves a decent PR, they could market themselves as London’s Greenwich Village. Actually, before they do that, they need a few more decent eateries. There are the odd hidden jewels, such as Jason’s fish restaurant on the canal and Red Pepper’s famous wood-fired pizzas, but unless you know where to look, you might find yourself wandering hungrily around for a while. Which is where Enigma comes in.

A lovely light and airy space with a great sun-trap terrace area too.

The menu is Modern European, albeit at the Mediterranean end of what that “genre” suggests. Our meal mixed brunch - good Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon on herb foccacia (£6.50) prepared with no hassle as a vegetarian dish – and a lunch – casoncelli, little ravioli-like parcels filled in this instance with beef and pumpkin, served in a wild mushroom sauce. The dish was lighter than it sounds but packed a flavoursome punch.

Service can be patchy. The first time was excellent but subsequent visits have been a little more haphazard. As always, that’s annoying when you’re in a rush but easier to forgive when just chilling over a late breakfast. The food though and strong by-the-glass wine list makes Enigma just about worth the risk though.

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