Golborne House

Golborne House is an oasis of calm in an unpromising area. Set in the shadow – virtually – of the massive Trellick Tower, Golborne House is generally regarded as one of London’s finest gastropubs. And, for sixty-plus percent of our visit, we’d agree.

It certainly balances the gastro bit of the name with the pub element. The mix is actually quite literal as one corner of the bar makes up the kitchen, so drinkers can watch the two industrious chefs do their industrious thing.

Over some olives, sparkling water and a glass of excellent De Gras Sauvignon Blanc (£3.50) – “smell the peaches in that!” ordered my companion and, indeed, I did – we perused the simple menu of old favourites with the odd innovative twist. Grilled asparagus with rocket and Parmesan got a flavour and colour boost from roast cherry tomatoes and quails eggs. Salt cod – a good-sized fritter with watercress salad, got a hefty kick from a paprika aioli.

Mains faltered though. Smoked haddock and leek omelette was more tortilla than omelette and dry tortilla at that. Chanterelle mushroom and mascarpone risotto scored highly on taste but lost marks for being undercooked rather than al dente.

Still, a happy ending – butter and cinnamon roasted plums with honey and ginger ice cream, a simple classic in the making – and a sensible, sub-£50 bill. Starters and puddings would seem to be the best way to go though.

More Reviews

Back to Home