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Jaan
Repeat after me: fusion is not a dirty word. While it was clearly one of the more abused foodie notions of recent years – with hundreds of awful combinations foisted on us in its misunderstood name – when done well, fusion can still knock your socks off. And Jaan does it very well indeed.
Chef Simon Duff has clearly put a lot of thought into a menu that combines the traditional with the unconventional, generally to dizzying effect.
Wild pigeon and foie gras is served with lentils and Chanterelles… but with a burst of liquorice foam to play with the taste buds. The roulade brings together lobster and rabbit with tomato confit and sauce Americaine. And a mash flavoured with vanilla beans. Logic says it shouldn’t work. But it does.
Other dishes go the simple route, such as the lemon scented crab and crisp pastry leaves in a Thai inspired sauce, a delicate but deeply flavoured combination. Still more dishes go way beyond the fusion idea and simply demonstrate a fine kitchen at the top of its game. Sea urchin and razor clam potage, for example, an intense burst of sea flavours tempered with watercress salad, mint jelly, and made exotic via the addition of gingko nut and taro crisp. Even the strawberry mousse with honeycomb wafer is enlivened with a “crackle bon bon” – or a chocolate dotted with space dust, to you and I. A fun twist that, like the other dishes on display, left a huge smile on my face.
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