Kensington Place

Kensington Place
201 – 209 Kensington Church Street, London W8 7LY
T: 0203 157 7027

With its heyday very much under the long departed masterchef Rowley Leigh, Kensington Place appears to be making a comeback. Though the striking mural is still very much in evidence at the rear of the restaurant, the establishment’s had a bit of a makeover with new flooring and furnishings. Of course, even the slightest change in décor wouldn’t make any difference if the cooking weren’t up to scratch so we are pleased to report that it is very good indeed.

Emphasis is given to fish – no surprises there considering there is a quality fishmonger’s right next door – and new head chef Daniel Loftin makes the most of it.

Seared swordfish is beautifully lifted with a punchy soy and mirin dressing while the mackerel escabeche is nicely married with a subtly flavoured potato salad. A fine option for vegetarians would be the salad of cashel blue with roasted beetroot and walnut, giving the dish attractively crunchy overtones.

Mains are a tad more restrained in flavour though equally well executed: sea bass with brown shrimp sauce vierge is fresh tasting and full of clean flavours. A non-fish option might be the Yorkshire grouse which comes with potato crisps and all the trimmings. Don’t ignore the puddings, which reveal some highly competent offerings, including a fine vanilla panna cotta with poached figs and a lemon posset with a lightly rendered shortbread accompaniment.

Service is efficient and knowledgeable, and the ambience informal and buzzy. It accentuates a welcome return to form for the restaurant.

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