Koi
There’s nothing like going to a gorgeous restaurant to entirely fill the senses. Such was our experience at New York’s Koi.
Despite having to wait an unsatisfactory amount of time before we were seated - without even the offer of a drink - Koi’s dining experience was, overall, a hit.
When seated we were able to admire the beautiful venue with its soft browns and warm orange hues. And overhead a sweeping white lattice canopy does well to draw your eyes around the room admiring the minute refinements of décor you’d expect from a Japanese restaurant.
While the simple table settings suggest a rather casual taverna, the formal, polished service is a better guide to the quality and ambitions of the cooking, as well as the size of the bill. Then again, ‘cheap and cheerful’ generally seems an alien concept when it comes to Japanese restaurants. After being served some water and a most delightful bottle of red my guest and I set about perusing the menu.
With much to choose from, we settled on an assortment of dishes including the Miso soup, Lobster Avocado with Mizuna, Shitake mushrooms, tofu-lime dressing and Yellowtail and Salmon Sashimi with Asian Greens and Sesame Dressing. While the lobster was a little overwhelming, and the Miso soup on the wrong side of hot, the yellowtail was superb and did well to make up for the other dishes (minor) shortcomings.
Advised to try some of Koi signature cold dishes, we opted for the famous crispy rice, topped with spicy tuna – which was like biting into a little slice of heaven – the tuna Sashimi with While Dashi Soy, the Spicy Seared Albacore, with Crispy Red Onions and some Creamy Rock Shrimp, of which the latter’s flavour was nothing short of delectable
But giving new meaning to the mantra, ‘best left to last’, the highlight of the meal was definitely Koi’s Sampler Plater of desserts. Featuring everything from Pumpkin Cheesecake, Molten Chocolate Cake, Coconut Rice Pudding, Pear and Cranberry Crisp, Apple Tarte Tatin, and Ice Cream and Sorbet Selections, it marked a culinary experience unlike any other.
However, such an experience is certain to put a hole in your pocket. The Sampler Plate of desserts will set you back $44 alone, with the entire bill, including wine and two cocktails amounting to a staggering $250. But if you’ve a penchant for Japanese food and an occasion that demands special attention, then Koi is definitely worth a visit.
40 W. 40th St. (in the Bryant Park Hotel), nr. Fifth Ave, NY
Tel: 001 212 921 3330
Service: 3
Atmosphere: 4
Food: 4
Value for money: 3
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