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Review

Mango & Silk

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Chef Udit Sarkhel has long been held as one the best Indian chefs in the UK, with head chef stints at such restaurants as the Bombay Brasserie and his very own, but now defunct Sarkhel’s. But now it seems Sarkhel is back in action with a menu that boasts some of his finest cooking from Sarkhel’s in a small, family-style restaurant. A fresh-tasting vegetable samosa with crisp pastry makes a fine starter, as does the Bombay ragara, which features potato patty with a delicious chickpea sauce. Also, the malai chicken tikka and the ginger lamb chops are as good as they ever have been from Sarkhel. For mains, the lamb shank nihari – slow cooked lamb shank - alas, doesn’t quite gather much praise for itself with a sauce that over compensates with tomato rather than noticeable spices though the Parsee-style lamb jardaloo with a mild lamb masala and straw potatoes is marginally better. Surprisingly, one of the daily specials – aubergine with cashewnuts came off beautifully and with plenty of flavour to boot.