Natraj


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For years, Charlotte Street has long lacked a decent Indian restaurant. Natraj, which was up until recently a Brazilian restaurant, takes a crack at redressing that. The site’s been given a spruce up with modernist tones and offers a menu that mixes north Indian, Bangladeshi and Nepalese dishes. Starters such as the lamb chops, seekh kebabs and the chicken pakoras are passable, but it’s the mains which are best noticeable. The lamb achar gosht, infused with pickled green mango, is a deliciously diverting curry, while the chicken nagamirch, runs a fiery though quite acceptable streak. Best of all though is the mass biran – with fresh water fish sautéed in olive oil and garnished with spring onion, garlic and dry fenugreek leaf. It’s a wonderfully flavoursome seafood dish. Sides, breads and rice are perfectly adequate and service friendly and efficient.

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