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Review

Preem

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Preem Restaurant and Balti House

120 Brick Lane
London E1 6RL

0845 345 1727

Lookswise, Preem is functional rather than ostentatious. To be blunt, there’s not a lot to make it stick out from its crowd of Brick Lane rivals but that’s not meant as a criticism. Give me talent in the kitchen over design flair any day of the week. And there Preem delivers in balti loads.

It’s owned and run by Hussein Aslan, who’s hit London by way of Scandinavia. The recipes are Indian but the Scandinavian influence means the best possible ingredients and healthier preparation. Ghee – the artery-threatening clarified butter at the centre of most Indian cookery – is banned. Meat is cooked in its own juices / fat while vegetables are fried in a splash of oil. This is no empty boast – anyone can witness the fact by attending one of Hussein’s weekly curry cooking courses.

Onion Bhajee , Aloo Puri and Vegetable Pakura were light, crisp and surprisingly delicate. Lemon Chana Chicken was exceptional meat – with the yellow hint of the cornfed, and you could cut it with a fork – with fresh lemon, herbs and chick peas. King Prawn Tapa, chopped prawn in a sauce of sweet and sour flavours, was excellent. Sag Bhajee and light, fluffy Nan were exceptional.

Preem is not a rival to “high end” Indian cuisine. However, on this evidence, it is a rival for anywhere else on Brick Lane.