Refettorio
Refettorio, the other Locatelli place, is as fine a combination of style and quality as you’ll currently find in London.
Stepping through from the hotel lobby, Refettorio is a warm and welcoming. It’s achingly stylish, yet it becomes clear, within seconds, that this is not a victory of style over substance. This is all about the food and the drink.
On the left, a counter containing the cheeses and cold meats that make up the (fantastically named) “Convivium” section on the menu. On the right, a selection of huge tables – think architect’s office – and more normal sized furniture. Further down, a large bar with a decent sized selection of wines (all Italian) by the glass. And dotted around, you have a group of exceptionally friendly and passionate staff to guide you through the menu.
Assistance is useful as, simply put, there is too much you will want to eat. This is not Italian food dressed up in bells and whistles: this is hearty fare with flavours that sing.
A selection of mountain cheeses – Castel Magno, Sola Mista and other cheeses you’ve probably never heard of – came served in with a little bowl of honey, an exquisite combination. We also ordered a stunning “non-pork” selection of meats, featuring Speck d’Anatra (duck), petto d’oca (goose) and a couple of beef dishes. This was accompanied by bread and oil, a huge bowl of fried zucchini and some crisp, sweet baby beetroot. Simple, hearty and the sort of social meal it’s impossible to beat.
Pasta was of similar quality, with the “al funghi” – featuring excellent fresh mushrooms – just edging out the still excellent pork ragout. Coffee and Tiramisu were also exquisite.
If there is a finer testimony to the benefits of superbly – yet simply – prepared fresh, well-sourced ingredients in London, I am yet to find it. Dazzlingly good.
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