Floriana


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15 Beauchamp Place SW3
(020 7838 1500)

If Stella Artois can sell itself as reassuringly expensive, Floriana should probably do the same. It is, famously, a little hard on the wallet but you get what you pay for: sophisticated surroundings, the finest ingredients and exceptional Italian cooking. Besides, there’s always the set menus which at £19 (lunchtime) and £30 (dinner) are stupidly good value for dining of this quality.

Thus, nestled in among the wealthy locals and the besuited business types, the culinary adventure began. Floriana isn’t big on innovation but there’s foodie passion aplenty. A recommended Crab Salad (£13 – a special of the day) starred a crustacean that was clearly walking happily sideways just a few hours before my colleague intervened. Il Carpaccio di Manzo Sozzese con Scaglie di Parmigiano e Rucola (£12.50) is a long way of saying carpaccio of beef with parmesan and rocket but it was the best version of this classic I’ve eaten anywhere.

Superb “middle” courses of Taglioni all’Astice con Pomodoro Fresco (£15) – pasta with lobster – and Il Risotto con Asparagi – exactly what it sounds like – kept the taste buds working in advance of the mains. Wild Sea Bass (£22.50) and Veal Milanese (£21) came with the minimum of accompaniment: a smear of mash, plus a handful of carrots and peas with the fish and a lettuce salad with the veal. Extra vegetable dishes are available but pricey so we settled for the simple approach and let the flavours shine through, never a bad idea with fish and meat of this quality. Strangely the wine list is relatively budget friendly: Soave Classico “La Rocca” providing a clean, fruity edge for £31.

The cheese trolley looked astonishing but, three courses to the good already, neither of us could face it. Instead, after a few minutes grace to finish the wine, we settled on the lighter option (yeah, right) of Duo di Cioccolato con Sorbetto ai Lamponi Freschi (£7.50), a great dessert of greater contrasts: hot and cold, chocolate and fruit, sharp and bitter.

Expensive, yes, but if I had £200 to spare, I can think of few places where I’d rather blow it.

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