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Review

Tate Modern Restaurant

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In case anyone hadn’t noticed, museum and gallery food has come up immensely in quality and choice and the Tate group – with both the Rex Whistler at Tate Britain and Tate Modern – offering some of the best in London. While the former is more in the classical tradition, with a wine cellar that would be the envy of any high-end restaurant, Tate Modern takes a more eclectic and cosmopolitan approach with its cooking. What’s more is that the restaurant, which on the seventh floor, has views to die-for, with the Thames stretched out underneath and the cityscape in front, the look is amazing. As for the cooking, soft boiled Burford egg atop cep salami and mustard dressing, and lime marinated salmon with fennel remoulade, are both light and refreshing starters. Mains such as the grilled sole with brown shrimp and devilled crab butter and the venison with Jerusalem artichoke puree, wild mushroom and juniper jus, have a subtlety about them that feels and tastes just right. Desserts have a simplicity about them as exemplified by the clementine chiffon pie with plum compote. It’s no surprise that the restaurant does roaring trade.