Thirty Six by Nigel Mendham

Thirty Six by Nigel Mendham
Dukes
St James’s Place
London
SW1A 1NY
T: 020 3157 7027

London areas rarely come more exclusive than in and around St James’s with its high-end shops, desirable apartments and of course, upmarket hotels and restaurants.

Falling under the latter category is one of the district’s finest 5 star hotels Dukes and its fine dining restaurant Thirty Six by Nigel Mendham. Practically everything about the hotel, let alone the restaurant says “quintessentially British”, whilst the warmth and luxury which the hotel admirably exudes, is clearly to the fore.

Chef Mendham also ensures that its modern British fare infused with quality ingredients which personifies the cooking in the hotel’s intimate restaurant.

Start with an intricate combination of artichoke with warm salad, quails eggs and autumn mushrooms or the equally delicate assembly of scallops with cauliflower, smoked eel and red sorrel.

To follow, a well-judged partnership of Highland venison and buuternut fondant, ossobucco and bacon spaetzle makes a strong impression whilst the Herdwick mutton also brings forth sticky rib, braised shoulder and navarin of autumn vegetables. All dishes are well-executed and flavoured though one small quibble may be that portions tend to be on the small side.

Highlights on the dessert front include a winning carrot cake accompanied by amongst other add-ons, spiced walnuts giving this pudding a well-deserved lift. Wines are suitably arresting and the service rather spot-on.

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