Champor-Champor

Champor-Champor
62 Weston Street
London SE1 3QJ

Tel: 020 7403 4600

Price per head: £19.00 for two courses, £22.50 for three courses


Champor-Champor means "mix and match" in Malaysian – and there really is no better way to describe this incredible restaurant. From the minute you walk through the door, into an Alladin's cave of colours, fabrics and smells, you are sent off on a magical mystery tour of Asia.

Everything about Champor-Champor has been carefully thought out, to allow you to dine in understated luxury. The owners have taken their original restaurant in Malaysia and transferred it to deepest darkest London Bridge – and somehow, they pull it off admirably! The tables, chairs and settings are all individual, so you might find yourself on a tribal seat, while your companion is on an mahogany high back chair, with a tribal mask watching over you. However, this higgledy-pigglediness is only for appearances' sake, and thankfully, does not extend to the menu. The food on offer changes according to the seasons, and caters for all tastes – however reserved or exotic yours may be! Autumn is apparently the right time for alligator, eel and ostrich – though if you are not convinced, you can stick to the more mainstream offerings of fish, duck and chicken.

Before I could even decide on my level of courage, we were supplied with an aperitif of gorgeous dips, piquant spring rolls and raw duck eggs; the latter I swallowed in one gulp, more in disgust than pleasure. Call me fussy, but I've never been one for large, slimy foetuses – though my dining partner assured me that as far as duck eggs went, these were above average. I decided to take her word for it. After this rather uncompromising start, I settled for the alligator which soon made me forget by unfortunate beginnings: the meat was tender, cooked to perfection and admirably complemented by a simple mint chutney. My friend assured me that her starter of raw fish was truly the best she'd ever eaten.

From this moment on, the evening was superb. The waiter treated us to the inter-course treat (their phrasing, not mine!) an orgasmic mixture of lapsang and longan sorbets. Could things possibly get any better? Well, yes they could, with a delicious, meaty ostrich infused with coconut, and a sea bass wrapped in banana leaf, with banana and ginger smoked rice. By the time desserts came round, my conscience was in a tug-of-war with my appetite. Needless to say, the stomach won and well rewarded it was too – with a mixture of rose, smoked banana, black pepper and cinnammon ice creams. My friend and I, unable to decide which one was best, finished them off in a matter of seconds!

The wine list continues the global tradition with a good selection of reasonably priced wines. There is also a wide range of teas from across Asia.

So if you don't go to another restaurant this year, go to Champor-Champor. It is a true feast for all the senses. This is food that you would be happy to cross half the world for, never mind half of London! Make sure you go while you can still get a table. I'll be the one in the corner eating the ice cream…

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